796 N Rocky River Rd Sanford, North Carolina 27330 (919) 932 - 3846 specscape@earthlink.net
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Hybrid Turf-Type Tall Fescue Lawn Establishment 

    A successful fescue lawn depends on a deep root system.   This begins with addressing any drainage or soil quality issues your yard may face.  Re-grading may be necessary to correct slow drainage and standing water. For poor soils, adding compost or improved native soil is an investment that will pay off forever. 
    Getting fescue seeds to germinate is the easy part of establishment; getting the plant to survive its first summer drought is the challenge. The deep root system is the difference maker. Click and see step by step examples of Lawn Seedbed Restoration.

 

Annual Aerating and Over-seeding

    Proper root development depends on loose soil, especially when it comes to turf grass.  Thorough aeration of compacted soils is the only way to loosen soils without disturbing existing turf plants.  Fertilizers and pH correcting lime also reach root zones easier when soils are loosened.  It could take years to correct the pH of compacted soil.  We depend on our aeration efforts to give us the results we deliver.  Fescue plants have a life span of 3-5 years so introducing a new generation each fall is sound practice.  Annual care in the form of heavy aeration and light over-seeding will help keep your fescue lawn healthy and vigorous. 
    Some seeders employ a method known as slit seeding.  Slit seeding is a process by which 1/2" grooves are cut into the soil and the seeds are left to germinate in compacted clay.  This does not inhibit the germination process but it does prevent the establishment of a deep root system, decreasing the chances of survival and weakening the foundation of your yard.

Basic Lawn Care Service Includes:

     Early Spring: Slow-release balanced fertilizer, pre-emergent and post-emergent weed control 

     Late Spring: Slow-release balanced fertilizer, pre-emergent and post-emergent weed control 

     Mid-Summer: Insect inspection and post-emergent weed control, soil sample taken to check pH level, lawn evaluation, aerating and over-seeding recommendations 

     Early Fall: Slow-release balanced fertilizer or seed starter fertilizer and post-emergent weed control 

     Late Fall: Quick-release nitrogen fertilizer 

Additional Lawn Care Services: 

     Brown Patch Control: This service controls ugly brown patch disease.  This is recommended beginning in late spring until mid-summer while brown patch is a threat. 

     Lime: Proper amount necessary is determined by the annual soil test provided with the lawn care program. 

     Grubworm Control: Late summer service to control grubs after they hatch and are actively feeding on grass roots near the soil surface. 

Dethatching 

    Removing excessive thatch caused by mulching or side discharge mowers is a cultural practice that will help control lawn diseases such as brown patch and help oxygen reach the soil level.    This service is commonly performed prior to aerating and seeding and is only necessary for extreme situations in fescue lawns. Weeds and moss can also be removed while dethatching to improve seeding conditions.
  Years of grass clippings accumulate and cut off air and water from the soil. First we will employ the use of a dethatching machine over the entire lawn. Then all of the dead plant material will be raked up and removed.
  The soil is exposed between the growth of living fescue, ready to accept the seed.

Watering Fescue

     Fescue needs approximately 1 inch of irrigation per week to perform its best. Keeping mind that many factors and site situations will make that figure fluctuate. The only way to determine how much you lawn needs is to evaluate its performance and log irrigation efforts.
    I strongly recommend watering “days consecutive” instead of “ days alternate”. By giving your lawn water on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, then off the remainder of the week you will force water deep into the top soil. Alternate days schedule only dampens the top layer of soil and allows a dry out period between cycles. A good watering plan must start here.
    Newly seeded fescue needs a sprits of water everyday, twice a day is even better, but only for a short period of maybe 5 minutes or less. All you want is just enough to dampen the soil. This is critical yet simple with the Rainbird ESP LX.
    Continue this process until you feel that all the seeds have germinated and reduce all irrigation by 50%. The number of possible configurations are many ie:
  • Number of days per week.
  • Number of times per day.
  • Number of minutes per cycle.

 


Killing Bermuda grass

           Almost all good landscape horror stories seem to have Bermuda grass in a starring role. It creeps in to shrub beds, grows across pavement and pathways, it creates yellow patches in fescue lawns in the winter. It even degrades the integrity of asphalt by growing in it and under it. So, what do you do? Kill it!
          This grass has it’s place, but it doesn’t belong in the average home lawn. Eradication can be a lengthy process, some times taking several years to complete. Here are some control strategies that can be considered:
  • To have your lawn in disrepair for four to six weeks begin to kill it with grass herbicides in late July and follow up the process biweekly until one week before seeding, A return of the Bermuda grass next summer is almost sure, but you will have much less of it. The process will have to be repeated.
  • In late spring, early summer when Bermuda grass has fully broken dormancy begin the killing process with grass herbicides, monitor and re-spray as needed.  Eradication in one season is very likely and preferable. 
Regardless whether plan one or plan two is best for you, there are some cultural practices that should be employed.
  • Since herbicides are not effective when your target weed is in drought stress you should keep the Bermuda grass watered during the killing process. Use good judgment about how much to water. Don’t over irrigate, just keep it damp.
  • After the effects of the first spray are visible, dethatch the area and remove the debris. Re-growth (and there will be some) will be easier to see and herbicides easier to apply. Expect to re-spray on two week intervals.
796 N Rocky River Rd Sanford, North Carolina 27330 (919) 932 - 3846 specscape@earthlink.net
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